Self Drafted Vest

After sewing a cushion for uzzi out of the wool remnants from my blazer I figured I had just enough left to make a vest. With no pattern that I liked I decided to try and copy a RTW vest from my closet. For my first copycat it didn’t go too poorly though I did make it a wee bit too small. Guess its time to lay off the cookies ūüôā

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I also had enough of the original red lining to do the whole vest so other then the buttons this was a complete stash buster!

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The insides have a wool facing along the front center and the rest is bemburg

 

I think it looks really great with the blazer, though I need to make some higher waisted pants (I’ve got my eye on you Ginger Jeans!).

Wool Blazer: Part 2

I am happy to be able to share my finished Wool Blazer/ English hunting coat.

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Tony has already declared this the best thing I have ever made. Despite the long and tedious preparation process, sewing this was a breeze. Things like the collar and sleeves which I expected to be troublesome came together with no issues. I thoroughly enjoyed making this coat as it managed to challenge me and boost my sewing confidence in one fell swoop. I wish I had gotten some pictures of the guts before attaching the lining but I was just too eager to get it finished.

These are two part sleeves with sort of a faux vent. They have a 1/4″ shoulder pad sewn into the lining and some fleece¬†as a sleeve heading to help¬†fill out the shape of the sleeve cap. That’s a lot going on under the hood!

We have a notched collar that lays very well if I do say so myself.

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The pocket flaps are non-functional but there is a pocket in the princess seams below the flap. I found some plastic buttons that do a brilliant job of looking wooden and really tie together the English feel for me.

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The back has some gentle princess seams for a slight bit of shaping. I wish I had done a sway back adjustment but its not too obvious.

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My favorite part is the silky rich red lining. It really makes this coat feel like a luxury.

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Needless to say, I am pretty satisfied, though I don’t think I will be making another anytime soon. I learned a lot of tailoring ¬†while making this and I feel like I can bump my skill level up a notch.

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Wool Blazer: Part 1

I have decided to start sewing my ‘English’ style blazer.¬†I took my inspiration photo with me to the store and I found ¬†a Simplicity blazer pattern that I think will work.

Im pretty sure the fabric is wool. Its one of the cuts that I got from the Denver Sewing Guild sale. I did a burn test and no hard plasticky bits formed so at least ¬†I know its not synthetic.¬†I know that¬†the lining of a blazer needs to be slightly slippery ¬†to help get it on and off and I was dreading having to use those awful polyester linings that Jo-anns has. It feels like wearing a plastic bag. Much to my surprise they now carry bemberg lining. I didn’t know what it was but it felt like a dream and is rayon so it should be breathable. It was $9.99 a yard but I had a 60% off coupon so I decided to spurge. It would be a waste to have such a breathable outside shell and stick a poly lining underneath.

When I got home I looked up bemberg, turns out it is the lining of choice for most bespoke tailors due to its durability, soft hand, and breathability….translation: I did very well.

So far I have spent a week on this blazer and I haven’t even started sewing yet. In order to make my standard waist lengthening of 1.5″ and arm ¬†an lengthening of 1″. ¬†I had to redraft 7 pattern pieces (darn princess seams). Then I cut it out. With the wool, lining, and interfacing we are talking 56¬†individual pieces. That took 3 days.

Day 4: Can’t get any of my chalk or pencils to mark on the wool. So I spent a day doing 72 tailor tacks.

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Day 5:¬†Iron on all that interfacing. I decided to use the “Amazing Tip” from the pattern and add interfacing along the bottom of all the pieces and the neck as well. After all this cutting I want to make sure this turns out as best as it possible can.

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Whew..thats a lot of prep work. Hopefully I can start sewing it soon and see this thing come to life!