Butterick 6385: Cafe au Coat

I’m soooo glad that I decided to plough ahead and do a wool coat in spring because it’s snowing today and I have had more than one opportunity to wear it already.  For some reason I figured Butterick 6385 was the easier of the two coats on the one I  should work on first. In reality I think that it was just the least expensive of the two ( less and lower cost fabric) so If I messed it up I wouldn’t feel as bad. The pattern itself was harder.

imgres

The fabric I used was a 100% wool coating from Fabric.com in the color Cafe au Lait. I bought it during one of their 70% off sales so I scored 3 yards for just $36. Turns out I only needed 2 yards….and suggestions on how to use the last yard? Once it arrived it seemed a bit thin (again, hindsight it was probably fine). After reading an article on threads called Understanding Underlining I decided some flannel would make a cozy addition to the interior. Boy was it time intensive! First you cut out the flannel out of the same pieces as the coat.   Then stack them and baste down the middle. Trim the flannel to account for turn of cloth. The hand baste the flannel to the wool and treat as a single piece.  I think the extra effort was worth it because it made the coat super warm and toasty but I don’t think I will be using it on my blue coat because everything got very bulky.

Once I stitched the panels together I trimmed the flannel pressed the seams open and then catch-stitched all the seams by hand hoping to alleviate some of that aforementioned bulk.

DSC_0708

 

So much hand work, my fingers were hating me! At this point I took a break to make my easter dress.

Having never done a coat before I found some interesting details in the pattern. I’m not sure it this is standard or not but I think it makes my coat seem more special. The lining has its own separate pattern pieces and the center back includes a little pleat to allow extra mobility across the back in between the shoulder blades.

DSC_0743

The pocket (per the pattern) has wool on the side touching you and lining on the other side. So if the pocket peaks open you only see wool but the bulk is reduced by using lining for the other half

DSC_0740

The lining is attached around the wrists and neck but is allowed to hand free across the bottom. I took a quick look at my Calvin Klein coat and i’ts made the same way.  I liked this because the lining doesn’t pull in any weird way. I did some thread chains to attach the lining at the various seams.  I also catch stitch the coat hem so there are no visible topstitching.

DSC_0744

Enough construction notes…you want to see this puppy on right! You’ll notice it’s missing buttons. I bought some nice big wooden ones but when it came time for buttonholes I could not get my machine to do them. It made them just fine when I did a test on double thickness of wool but for some reason  it’s just too thick to work on the coat.  I could sew the holes by hand with a blanket stitch but I’m worried that it would look to messy and I would hate to mess up all the work I did with messy button holes. For the time being it’s to be a closureless coat. Lesson learned, do bound buttonholes on the next coat ( that one only has two so it shouldn’t be too bad).

DSC_0725
me-thinks I may have over pressed it

I can’t help but feel like a girl-boss when I wear this coat. It turned out almost exactly like I envisioned.

DSC_0736

DSC_0733

 

 

Simplicity 1873: #EasterSpringDress2017

I thought I would take a break from my winter coat and join in on the spring dress sewalong. When I picked up this fabric I was thinking a mod 60s style shift dress but then quickly retreated back to my fit-n-flare comfort zone and used Simplicity 1873 instead.

1873

I sewed the View C bodice with the longer skirt of view A. Boy I am glad I did because this is just on the cusp of being shorter than I like.

DSC_0680

 

The fit isn’t the best. I must admit I heard about this sew along a while ago when Akram first posted it on We Sew Retro but I didn’t know I was going to participate until last week so I didn’t have time to muslin. In retrospect I probably did but this is the excuse that I am telling myself.

I cut a 14, some reviewers said that the waist was too small and since the pattern didn’t have any finished waist measurements I walked the pattern and it did seem awfully small so I graded it out to a 16 at the waist. Mistake. I should have just done what I always do and cut a straight size. At least now I know for next time! It’s OK now I have extra room in the dress if I need to eat a whole ham or something.

DSC_0660

By design the bodice ends just above the natural waist but I would prefer it to be dropped another inch. Also The back is quite high and I didn’t have any zippers that long so I scooped out the back which I think looks more flattering anyway.

DSC_0703
I would have taken more outdoor photos but my remote ran out of battery 

I love the pleat design in this pattern, I will definitely use it again when I have directional prints. This dress only used 3.36 yards ( I had asked for 3.5 yds but this was all that was left on the bolt). In any case I feel like that’s pretty economical considering the bodice is self-lined and the skirt looks twirly.

DSC_0714
Obligatory guts shot!

For the buttons I hemmed and hawed over what to use. I did not want to go out and buy more since my button stash is sort of out of control. I had robins egg blue buttons that I liked witht the fabric but they weren’t big enough. I ended up using these which are vintage self covered button blanks. I was going to cover them but then I  sort of liked the way the brushed metal looked with the fabric and Tony agreed and so it was.

DSC_0710

This dress was a good break from all the hand sewing on my coat and I managed to knock it out in a day and a half. More importantly the weather is actually starting to turn around here so I even got to wear it already!!!! The bodice needs some adjusting but I think this is a good basic dress pattern and I won’t be surprised it I sew it up a few more times.

Butterick 5814 – Betty Bombshell

I apologize for my lapse in posting. I have been trying to get a youtube channel up and the weathers been so grey and gloomy that it has been difficult to take photographs. Also I have now managed to stuff my stash full of fall/winter fabric just in time for spring so i’m sort of at a quandary of “what to make next”. I am sort of wanting to make a wool coat but fear that being out of sync with the seasonings will make for a bad blog post….Im coming into that dangerous time were the the blog is starting to dictate the sewing  and not the other way around which is not were I want to be!

For todays dress I used the bodice of Butterick 5814 and a self drafted skirt.

b5814_a

I spent weeks working on the bodice and ran into a slew of fitting issues. I wanted to lengthen the front but of course the pattern didn’t provide any lines . I also tried  to raise the neckline a tad for modesty ( though I think its still a little bare and I may add some lace in later). I also futzed around with the sleeves since they kept falling off. I eventually got it to an OK place but i’m not 100% pleased with it. The pleats in the bodice create some fullness that Im not loving. I tried to take my time and tried some new (to me) techniques. I used some twill tape to stabilize the bias cu v-neck and back line. I also added in so stay tape before sewing in the zipper.

DSC_0575

The bodice also has spiral steel boning added to the lining. I made casing for the boning out of rayon seam binding from my stash. It’s all inclosed inside the lining so you won’t see the green when it is done.

DSC_0579

 

The skirt was a headache as well. I used an online tutorial for how to flat draft the skirt and the first muslin had these wacky wide fins on my hips. It took 3 more tries before I got something I was happy with and even still I had to pull the dress on and off a half dozen times shaving millimeters off to get the perfect fit.  I also contemplated for a while on what to do with the lining. The fashion fabric has a slight stretch to it which makes sitting down in a form fitting pencil skirt a little more comfortable. However I knew I wanted to wear this dress with heels which means stockings are needed and that means slippery lining. I ended up putting in a full lining out of matching bemburg. I left the skirt lining bigger then the fashion fabric in order to accommodate thigh spread when sitting. I am happy I did because I think it adds a luxurious feel to the finished dress.

DSC_0644

You’ll also notice from the above picture that I added a kick pleat to the lined skirt. I am very happy with how this turned out though I don’t think I would self-draft this again. I want to try and find a pattern that already has it included so that I can get the precise angles.

At least for now I feel like all the effort was worth it because I feel like Marilyn when I put it on even if the bodice is  bit wonky!

Unfortunately the fabric doesn’t photography well. The  sheen of the sateen brings out every little wrinkle. If you want to see the dress in motion Click Here