As I am sure your have noticed by now, I have an affinity for retro styled patterns. It was only a matter of time before I tried Butterick 5882 shelf bust dress.
I have seen quite a few renditions of this dress online and in many the bust looks slightly tortured. I spent a lot of time trying to make sure I got those pleats just right.
Another alteration I made was that many people expressed concern over the bias cut straps stretching. So I cut mine in 3 pieces instead of one. The bit that goes around the bust is bias cut and if you look closely above you can see the seam right at the neckline where I switched over to fabric cut on the grain.
The sizing on this dress was a little funny. Every pattern I have sewn up until now I cut a straight size. I muslined a 14 and thought it way to big so ended up cutting a 12. The end results fits OK but the bust is too small for me to fit a bra on underneath, but the waist is to big. If anything I think my shape sort of boyish so the fact that it needs a bigger bust and smaller waist blows my mind.
The bodice lining has boning ( don’t think you can tell). I imagine this would be very useful in keeping the dress from bunching up throughout the day.
I think the finished dress is OK on the dressform but I don’t like the neckline on myself. I was thinking having all this stuff at the bust would help my small chest look bigger but if anything it does the opposite. Also I feel the bust detail looks to narrow on me.
Its a shame because I really like the fabric and its discontinued now. Perhaps with a cardigan or something I might feel more confidant.